Moulay Idriss Zerhoun: Morocco's Holy Town

1. Who was Moulay Idriss?

Idris ibn Abdallah, a descendant of the Prophet Muhammad, fled the Abbasid caliphate in the east and arrived in the region in 789. The local Amazigh tribes accepted him as their leader, and he founded the Idrisid dynasty, the first Muslim state in Morocco. He died in 791, and his son Idris II went on to develop the city of Fes.

His tomb made the town a place of pilgrimage. It is often said that several visits to Moulay Idriss during the annual festival are worth one pilgrimage to Mecca for those who cannot afford the journey.

2. Arriving and finding your way

The town is built over two hills, Khiber and Tasga, with the shrine in the hollow between them. Vehicles stop at the bottom, beside a small market, and from there a ramp leads to the main square.

A wooden bar across the entrance to the shrine marks the point beyond which only Muslims may go. To either side, stepped lanes climb between whitewashed houses to the viewpoints. The climb is short but steep, so wear proper shoes and take your time.

3. What to see

The town is small enough to see on foot in an hour or two. Everything leads up from the main square.

• The mausoleum: The green-tiled shrine at the heart of the town. Non-Muslims may not enter, but can look in from the wooden barrier at the entrance.
• The main square: Cafés and grills where pilgrims and locals gather.
• The cylindrical minaret: Unique in Morocco, covered in green tiles bearing verses from the Koran.
• The terraces: Climb the steep lanes to the 'grande terrasse' or 'petite terrasse' for views over the green roofs and the countryside.
• The Roman baths: A small spring-fed pool on the edge of town.

Local tip: Local boys offer to lead you to the viewpoints. It is worth accepting: the lanes twist confusingly, and a small tip is all they expect.

4. A town that kept its doors closed

For centuries non-Muslims were not allowed to stay in Moulay Idriss overnight. That rule was lifted only in 2005, and a handful of family guesthouses have opened since. The town remains traditional and quiet, with donkeys in the lanes and very little made for tourists.

5. The annual moussem

Each August the town hosts one of the largest religious festivals in Morocco, the moussem of Moulay Idriss. Pilgrims arrive from across the country, with processions, music and fantasia horse displays. It is a remarkable sight, though accommodation is scarce at that time.

6. Volubilis in brief

Volubilis was the main city of the Roman province of Mauretania Tingitana and grew rich on olive oil and wheat between the first and third centuries. Idris I himself first settled here, when it was known as Walili, before the new town grew up around his tomb.

The site has been on the UNESCO list since 1997. Its mosaics are still in place on the floors of the houses they were made for, among them Orpheus charming the animals and the labours of Hercules. A triumphal arch, raised in honour of the emperor Caracalla, stands at the end of the main street, and storks nest on the columns of the basilica.

Local tip: Volubilis has almost no shade. Visit early or late in the day, carry water and wear a hat.

7. Combining it with Volubilis and Meknes

The Roman ruins of Volubilis lie only four kilometres below the town, and the two are almost always visited together. Meknes is about 30 minutes away, and Fes just over an hour. On our tours from Casablanca and Chefchaouen, Volubilis and Meknes are stops on the road to Fes, and Moulay Idriss can be added on request.

8. What to eat

Smoke from the grills is the first thing you notice on the square. Order kefta, minced meat grilled on skewers and tucked into bread, and eat it at a plastic table with the pilgrims. The hills of Zerhoun are covered in olive trees, and the local oil and olives are excellent. Stalls also sell blocks of nougat, a sweet traditionally taken home from the pilgrimage.

9. Staying the night

Very few visitors sleep here, which is the reason to do it. Once the day-trippers leave, the town returns to its own rhythm: the call to prayer echoing between the hills, families strolling on the square, the lights of the plain below. A handful of family guesthouses offer simple rooms, home cooking and roof terraces, and you can be at Volubilis when the gates open.

10. Best time to visit

Spring is the loveliest season, when the countryside is green and wildflowers grow among the Roman stones. Autumn is also pleasant. In summer the heat is strong by late morning, and in winter the hills can be cold and wet. Whatever the season, late afternoon gives the best light on both the town and the ruins.

11. Visiting respectfully

This is a working pilgrimage town first and a place to visit second. A little care is noticed and appreciated.

• Dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered.
• Do not try to enter the shrine or photograph people at prayer.
• Friday is the main day of worship and the busiest.

Frequently Asked Questions